• Apr

    Caffe’ El Triunfo In, You Guessed It – El Triunfo, BCS, Mexico


    When you drive south out of La Paz you’ll wind up on a long stretch of road for about 20 minutes or so. At around the 20 minute mark you’ll come to a fork in the road. If you go to the right you’ll start driving towards Todos Santos. If you take the left turn option you’ll start driving towards the east side of the Baja, to a place known as the east cape.

    On the way you’ll start getting into some winding and mountainous terrain and one of the first stops on your journey is El Triunfo, a former mining town. At the height of its production, it was the largest city in BCS (Baja California Sur) and over 10,000 miners lived there. In 1926, the mines shut down and most of the people left. At last count (according to the sign you see upon entering the town, only 361 people live there.

    Part of the past there was a rich culture involving piano music and a museum which are still there, as well as regular piano performances. The other remnant of the mining is a 35 meter high smokestack which was designed by Gustav Eiffel. One thing you’ll notice if you take in this landmark is that all the entrances to the base of the smokestack have been blocked off with pieces of old mining equipment. The other thing is that the smokestack has a long crack in it which rises vertically. In my opinion it’s just a matter of time before it collapses.

    Walking around town is quite the experience because it’s so quiet here, as you can imagine. While there are many buildings, there’s not much sign of anyone around, except on the main drag of town and on a few of the side streets. The reason I’m writing about this place is because I friend of mine told me I should stop here and visit the bakery/coffee shop. He was right.


    Here’s the sign as seen from the highway.


    The front entrance to Caffe El Triunfo. Note that there’s a back entrance, too, on the opposite side of the building and a parking lot. When I first came here there was an empty field across the street where I used to park but that’s been fenced off, so you’ll either have to park on a side street or around the back.


    The back of the bakery/restaurant with the smoke stack in the distance.


    An Americano coffee with a sticky cinnamon bun. Need I say more?

    © Nathan Segal

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